Inishmore

I woke up early to pack and get ready to go to the island for the day. The hostel breakfast was just white bread with butter or jam. I ate 2 slices and grabbed 2 slices to go, hoping to supplement my snack-bar lunch. I was one of the last people to fit on the first bus; the others lining up would have to wait for the next one. There were tons of cars and buses heading towards the ferry station. I figured the ferry must be huge. The hour long bus ride was rough, just passing through neighborhoods and farms. We immediately boarded the ferry, which had 3 floors with an open top deck. There were 12 seats across and maybe 10 down? I wasn’t too sure how many people fit but there were plenty left standing on the sides and sitting in the aisles. I sat on the top, knowing it’d be cold but not caring becasue I wanted the view. It took about 45 minutes but it was a very smooth ride. I thought about what I was going to see first or what I’d have time for and decided to rent a bike for the day for 10 euro. That way I could see more than just the fort. I got my bike, a pink road bike, and started pedaling my way along the coastal route to the fort.

 Wow, not even 5 minutes had passed and this bike was already uncomfortable. The handle bars were way too low, the seat was too tiny and I felt every bump or gravel on the road. This made me miss my awesome beach cruiser bike back home with its fat tires, large ergonomic comfort seat and tall/wide handlebars. It was tough going uphill but I loved the whoosh of the air as I flew downhill. I felt like I got going pretty fast or maybe it was that I’d been mostly traveling at 2mph for awhile. I made it first to the seal’s beach where there were supposed to be seals hanging around. I think I saw 2 far away but they could’ve been rocks. It was a smelly piece of shore for sure. I tried to eat my toast but it’d gotten hard. I pedaled on, trying not to think about the pain all along my back. I came to a beach and decided to stop for a bit, even though it was way too cold and windy for beachtime. Of course I dipped my toes in the watter and it was ice-cold! I wandered back to the rocks and sat, waiting for my feet to dry to get the sand off. It didn’t take long and I was on my way again, unsure of where all the hundresds of people I’d come over with were. There was an 11 and 12 oclock ferry so there should be triple the people. 

I made it to the bike lot where there were gifts shops, a cafe and the admission gates. It was 4 euro to go inside the fort. They said to allow 20 minutes to walk there, 20 to explore, and 20 to walk back so I had plenty of time. I was surprised at the number of people going up as the hike up got pretty steep and rocky in spots. I finally stepped through the entrance and voila! All I saw were large stone walls. Yes, these rocks had first been put into place at 500BC but they’d been destroyed and rebuilt numerous times before being abandoned. The walls looked just like the ones I’d seen all over the country except much taller. I walked over to the cliff edge hoping for a great view. Now that was cool. Parts of the cliff jutted up and out farther than the rest making it seem as if you were over the edge. i strolled around the fort, trying to find any cool doors or exits but it was just a plain rock circular wall.

 I exited and bought a chocolate muffin to go with my lunch. I tried sitting at the picnic table in the sun but it was still just too cold to enjoy it. I biked back, still with plenty of time, along the non-coastal route. I felt like it’d been uphill both ways. I was going so slow uphill I may have been walking my bike. A couple and I would leapfrog each other as we pedaled our way back. One hill was super long so I got off and walked my bike. As I pulled my bike along, a bug flew into my ear. 

Ack, get out, out! I could hear it buzzing its way deeper and deeper. Ow, now it started to kind of hurt or make pressure in my ear. I didn’t want to put my finger in my ear afraid to push it in further. I started to freak out, hopping in place and shaking my head wildy. It kept buzzing then it stopped. Was it still in there? Yepp, there’s the buzzing again. I hope it doesn’t get tired and just stay in there. Finally, I heard some more buzzing and what felt like it flying away. Whew, not sure what I would’ve done had it actually gotten stuck. 

I made it back to the few shops around the pier and bought myself an ice cream. I happily froze as I ate it, trying not to shiver. I turned in my bike and wandered the few shops before walking to the ferry. They were already boarding 45 minutes early. I got on and just kind of dozed in the seat next to the sun filled window until we got back to the bus terminal. Once we got back to Galway I checked back into the hostel getting the same room again. 

I was wanting to explore the city before getting dinner so I plotted a course, trying to see as many free attractions within a 30 minute walk. I took a wrong turn but ended up walking along Galway harbour with all the boats which was beautiful in the lowering sun. Many of the cafes were closed but that was ok as it kept me from spending money. I did find a gelato/crepe/waffle and nutella cafe though. They had huge jars of nutella but their prices were too high for how much you got. As I turned the corner, I saw tons of people gathering and heard a last few resounding beats. A few girls were making beats together in the streets. I hung around until they started playing again. I wondered what prompted them to play in the streets. A guy from the crowd really got into it, dancing and buying them a 6pack, placing a beer in front of each of them. A girl with really cool fringed booty moccasins joined him, dancing and twirling around. The girls finished their set and the crowd dispersed. My guess is they’d wait a bit for the next crowd to gather around. It was getting late, 9:30pm, so I headed back to the hostel to cook pasta and make plans to go hike in Connemara National Park the next day. 

Blarney Castle

I woke up a little after 8 and cooked the rest of my eggs. I was hard to finish all 3 today. I couldn’t figure out how best to attach my daypack to my pack so I just carried it. I bought a bus ticket to Cork for 23.50euro which was way higher than I expected. I tried writing my journal but had no idea where I was as the bust never announced stops nor did they have signs saying which stop it was. Cork ended up being a huge bus station and I immediately bought a 2 way ticket to Blarney. It took just a short time and I was on entrance to a castle! It started sprinkling so I ducked into an alleyway to put my rain cover and rain jacket on. I ate 2 slices of cold pizza, just standing there in the alleyway as people rushed by under umbrellas. I figured out how to attach my daypack and away I went towards the castle. I paid the student discount price of 11euro and soon found myself staring up at a huge stone structure in front of me.

Wow, it’s a castle! I explored all around it, into the dungeons and secret trap passages it had. I ventured towards the front, eventually getting into the long line to kiss the Blarney stone. I wasn’t too sure about kissing it but I did want to see it and the rest of the castle. The line wandered through different rooms and up next to crumbly old steps. We reached a long steep spiral staircase and as we got higher, I wasn’t sure my pack would fit. The steps were hardly wide enough for my feet to stand on and my pack was brushing all sides of the spiral. Finally I reached the top of that one and had to lunge forward to get my pack through. Now we were near the top of the castle, stepping where castle defenders had fought. I wondered what it would’ve been like, to actually have to protect your home and livelihood from other people. As I got closer to the Blarney stone, there were plaques telling the history and stories behind it. It was said that you’d receive the gift of eloquence, of gab, if you kissed the Blarney stone. It was closely guarded at the very top of the castle, up another set of spiral stairs, this one skinnier than the last. \it was finally my turn. I dropped my pack, layed on my back, reached for the stability bars and kissed the stone. There were 2 men there, one to help hold people from falling, the other to take their picture (like a roller coaster pic) and sell it to them at the bottom. I made my way back down, wandering through the great hall and kitchen areas back to the tiny photo gift shop. I stood in line just to see how my picture came out, definitely not to buy one. It didn’t turn out too well anyway. I ambled over to the Poison garden, containing plants that could be made to harm, like the mandrake from Harry Potter. Back then, this type of garden would be the health garden, good or bad. Next I went past the old trees, some so large they didn’t look real. I ambled through a rose garden (it smelled so good…I wish my pictures could be scratch & sniff!) and the druid garden. By then I was pretty tired and hurting from carrying my pack around.

I got back on the bus to Cork where I wandered for an hour or so before getting on a bus to Killarney. Maybe I was too tired but I didn’t care too much for Cork. It was really grimy and really trashy looking around the river and main street shopping and eateries. The whole place looked run down and unkempt. I got to Killarney at 7ish and immediately saw an outfitter. I liked this town already. I took out my phone and made my way to the Neptunes Hostel, taking my time, ducking into Irish/celtic gift shops. I loved going in them just to hear the music. I got to the hostel, checked in, and of course my room is on the 3rd floor. I’d had pizza and a banana on the bus for dinner so I wasn’t hungry. I just stayed downstairs, alternating between people watching and planning/updating the blog. I went upstairs at 11 and surprisingly all my roommates were in bed asleep. The bed was firm but soft with no weird lumps or bumps or springs felt through.

Waterford

I woke at 7:30, packed a little and went down for my half Irish breakfast. She’d already left for her day job so he was cooking. He had it all set out all pretty on the table and I felt bad because I knew I was just going to pick at it because I still had a hard time eating. He set a plate of goodies in front of me and I almost threw up. I knew it smelled good, of bacon, sausage, eggs, beans & tomatoes but my body just said no. I started with the beans and ate as much as I could, getting through the sausage and toast. He helped me figure out the bus, saying we’d leave at 11, to go to the (slightly) larger city where I could catch a bus to Waterford to chill there. We left and we caught the bus just before it left. I was able to get the student ticket of 11euros. I’d contacted Tom of Toms comfort hostel and he said he could pick me up at the bus station at 5:30 so I had 4hours to explore Waterford.

Lunch was the first stop. I walked back and forth looking for a cheap place to eat but also to sit down somewhere. I found a tiny little shop called Bunkers that served a few different sandwiches on sourdough or blaa bread. Blaa bread was softer and fluffier. I chose a BBQ sandwich on blaa bread and it turned out pretty tasty. The shop was filled with old photos and odd trinkets but had a very homey feel. I wasn’t sure if it was purposefully like that to be touristy but I liked it. The lady let me use the shop bathroom as most places did not have restrooms for even customers. There were pay-for-use toilets next to the bus station.

I finished lunch and immediately wandered down the street into a tiny shop called Serendipity. It was run by an American couple that moved here 10years ago. They sold lots of health/healing stuff, books, soaps, oils, organic vegan bars and they had “healthy” lights that were to make you feel more relaxed. They had chairs and wifi so I got to know them a little, getting information on what to do and what not to do in Waterford. I left, telling them I’d probably be back, but I was going to explore Waterford.

I walked to the Viking triangle, through a shopping center that had a chocolate cafe, among other stores. I spent some time admiring the chocolates, pondering which I was going to buy. I settled on a Guiness caramel filled chocolate bar, paid for it, and promptly went outside and polished off (almost) half of it. Mmm! So tasty it fills my heart with happy.

I still need to get groceries, pasta, oatmeal, protein bars, nabs and snacks of some sort as well as dinner for tonight. I went back to Serendipity and used the wifi to locate a supermarket. I left my pack with the couple there at Serendipity and made my way towards the Aldi. I felt I could trust them with my stuff. I always carry my important things, like my passport, credit cards, phone, etc on my person anyways. I bought a half dozen eggs, 3pastas, granola bars, and 2 bananas before it was time to go. I went back near the chocolate cafe to buy a smoothie from the Shake Shack for dinner. Peaches, bananas and yogurt…mmm, I love fruit!

I grabbed my pack from Serendipity and headed across the street to the station but not before thanking the couple, telling them they truly been a lifesaver. They gave me 3 9bars, organic seed energy bars that were just past there shelf life. I waited at the station for Tom, not knowing exactly where I needed to be but ran into his wife, Sonya. She works in the city as he more of runs the hostel I guess. I’m still not used to sitting in the front seat on the wrong side of the car on the wrong side of the road. The hostel was just an extra couple of rooms of his house. A kitchen/lounge area, bathroom and a couple rooms with bunk beds. There were 2girls there and 2guys would show up a little later. I mostly stayed in my room, planning and writing til time to go to bed.

Lost and Found

I woke up, feeling refreshed as that was the best nights sleep yet. It was cloudy and foggy, sorta raining but I knew I was just in a cloud. The rain would come and go so as I hiked out, I put my pack cover on. Luckily it didnt actually rain, just fogged, so I never needed my rain gear. I’d had 5 straight days of sunshine in ireland. I hiked out of the forest and into roads through rolling green pastures full of cows and sheep. It was hard to find a spot to go to the bathroom on a road hedged in or next to houses. But I managed, finding out that Ireland has it’s version of stinging nettles. Fortunately, it was just my leg, not elsewhere, that was stung. I carefully walked through pastures, having to really work to avoid all the cow patties and sheep droppings. I passed through many gates, making sure to shut them behind me. I am not a sheep! I saw a few horses in front of me, thinking they were gorgeous then realizing I had to pass through the gate directly through them and behind them. There were 7 of them, 2 lying down, but all pressed against each other against the gate. I approached, telling them to move. I walked within inches of one laying down and he didn’t budge or seem to care. Yay! I strode confidently towards the gate putting my hands out, telling then to move. Most did except for one. He wanted to sniff my pack, my feet, my hair. I laughed, asking him if he’d like to carry my stuff for me. He snorted and sidestepped away so I took that as a no. I stepped over the gate stile and plodded on, looking back at the 2 girls that just passed me trying to weave their way through the horses.the next few hours were filled with nothing but avoiding sheep poop. I thought I was following signs well but I came to a road intersection that had none. I knew I was now off the path, commonly called lost, but I really didn’t want to walk all the way back on the road to the last known yellow man. They put up signs at intersections, often not marking again til the next intersection sometimes 30minutes plus walk. All of my map apps had trouble locating me so I called the place I was going to camp at to see if they’d had people get lost there before. They hadn’t but I told them I’d be there soon. Finally google found me and it looked like I could turn left and get to the hostel by roads which I’d be walking anyway. After walking for another 20mins, not seeing any cars and realizing I still had double the distance to go, I tuned around, not really wanting to go back but not wanting to go forward either. At that moment a car came by, slowing down and stopping in from of me. A guy with a thick Irish accent asked, “Are you the girl that rang a bit ago?” I nodded and he said to get in. He had thought I couldn’t be too far so he doive out to look for me. God had sent me an angel at just the right moment. I got in the front seat and away he drove. I’d never been in the front seat of a backwards car, on the wrong side of the road. If I hadn’t have been too tired, I might’ve gotten dizzy. I met his wife and she showed me to my room, one double bed, toilet and shower all to myself. I had intended to camp but I was just too overwhelmed to say no. They were leaving for a few hours for the evening so they showsed me how to use the stove and said to make myself at home. I was the only one there. I just lay there on my bed for half an hour, to overwhelmed to move, to eat or shower. This whole trail had been an ordeal, not as I expected. It was supposed to be Ireland’s prettiest, most popular long distance hiking trail but I hadn’t seen many people and it’s mostly been on roads. I was thoroughly disappointed in it and myself somewhat, that I was having a tough time giving it up. I don’t ever quit anything so it was challenging to just say I’m done with the Wicklow Way, 25km before the end. I felt defeated but maybe dinner and a shower would help. I made my pasta all fancy with butter and some milk not just water but that still didn’t help me eat it. There were a few cookies out so of course I tried one of each. One was okay but the other was delicious! It had caramel in the middle and chocolate on the outside. I knew I needed to chill someplace for a day or two and make plans. But first I had to get out of this tiny town and get a bUs ticket to Waterford, a city I’d picked thatvwas in the direction I wanted to go. I tried to plan but couldn’t. I knew the things I wanted to do but didn’t really know how to put them together. I’d found a hostel to stay at in Waterford but that’s all I got. I went back to my room to shower, and crashed after that, knowing it’d all work out in the morning somehow.

Windy Wicklow Way

I didn’t sleep well at all; maybe it was the wind, maybe it was the first night being in a tent in awhile. The wind was howling all night. I felt like if I wasn’t in my tent, it’d blow away! If I curled up with my feet close to me away from the bottom of the tent, the back of the tent would lift up, pulling against the stakes. The sides of the rainfly billowed out making it look like a sailing ship in the 5am light. I stayed in my bag til 8:30, got up and packed up my tent as fast as I could, stepping on pieces so they wouldn’t blow away. I knew I couldn’t cook here with all the wind so I figured I’d cook when I reach the trees/protection from the wind. As I started hiking up, the wind was so fierce it knocked my feet sideways. I gazed ahead and realized the trail continued up bald pastures so I just crouched behind a piece of the old crumbled rock wall and cookedmy breakfast of oatmeal. I choked it down, still unable to eat much, packed up and kept going because it was cold! I wasn’t hiking fast enough to stay warm. I saw lots of sheep and had to step carefully to avoid their droppings. Right after lunch I crested a hill and voila, there was a lake! It was incredibly gorgeous. By that point, I was hot and sweaty so I wanted to go jump in the lake. But alas, it was too far away. I hiked on, passing moe sheep and cows, hiking on roads, gravel roads and fire roads through mountains that were currently being logged. I strolled past he Wicklow lodge, not even going in because it looked way fancy. The roadwalk was super long and in the hot sun. Two fellows passed me going the other way, expressing surprise that I was on my own. They told me there were 2 guys from TX just ahead of me, as well as free water from a farmers shed just up the way. I drank a few drops straight from the hose and soon found myself catching up to the 2 TX dudes. They hiked a tiny bit faster but stopped to take a lot of pictures so it was about my pace. We were all going to Glendalough Hostel (pronounced glendaluck.) we arrived at Glendalough hotel which looked fancy and we thought this can’t be it. We were pointed on down the road, past the tiny church and graves to the hostel. I checked in and found myself on a bottom bunk bed of about 10bunks of all girls. I went out to the common room, the only place where thee was wifi, to try to plan the next few days. The TX guys came out as well and we met Hannah. She was doing like I was, solo backpacking around Europe. She started in Stockholm, Sweden and had planned on having a partner but the girl dropped out. She was on day 11 and advised me it gets easier. The first week she was all over the place, similar to how I was, but then she started making plans 5-7 days out instead of 1-3 and she said that was way less stressful. She and the TX guys went to dinner at a place that had appetizers that started at 16euro. Nope, not the place for me. I showered in the teensy tiny shower that had a push button for every 5 seconds. Now that was annoying! I tried to lean against it without touching the wall but that didn’t work. I tried pushing it with my elbow but that didn’t work either. I thought maybe the hot water would be good for my sore back, sore hips, sore feet…road walking really got me hurting! I got out, having pushed that button what felt like a million times and grabbed a pasta side to cook. The self serve kitchen was still crowded at 8pm so I had to use a large pot just to boil a cup and a half of water. I watched it boil so of course it took forever but eventually I ended up with creamy tuna alfredo. Hopefully the protein will do good to my muscles. Robert and Eric (the 2 TX guys) and Hannah came back fat and happy from the restaurant and we all sat around the common room with our phones, trying to make plans but just swapping stories instead which was a-ok with me. The guys would be hiking to glenmalure tomorrow (my halfway point for tomorrow) and Hannah would be meeting up with a lady who was taking her to go ride a horse alll day through the Irish mountains! She’d been riding horses since she could walk so this was her dream come true. It was now almost midnight and I had no idea where I would spend the next night but I was sleepy so I fell into my comfy bunk bed.